The deluge of new arrivals in stores means it’s time to plan your autumn wardrobe. Topping most wish lists this season is the statement coat, available in so many different forms it will make your head spin.
While many designers experimented with shape, cut or fabric, others used styling tricks to transform their outerwear. Balenciaga’s coats were worn pulled back across the shoulders. At Celine, models held their coats shut using one hand. There is something for everyone: the edgy urbanite (DKNY), femme fatale (Lanvin) or dreamy romantic (Gucci).
One thing most designers agree on this season is that basic is boring. They have taken timeless styles and reworked them into pieces that look fresh and, dare we say it, original. Case in point is the biker jacket, which thanks to Kate Moss, is a guaranteed bestseller at any luxury or high-street store. For autumn, it has shrugged off some of its rock edge thanks to a new oversized silhouette that brings to mind the 1990s with its slouchy shoulders and long torso. Rick Owens’ version has lapels so big that the jacket morphs into a cape.
Another classic, the bomber jacket has been rebranded as the aviator, and has a sportier look. Editors were fawning over the Gucci version decorated with striped cuffs and an orange padded lining. Trench coats are also going strong but rather than invest in practical gaberdine style, designers are hoping you will splurge on buttery leather versions (Celine) or black patent (Lanvin) instead. Valentino’s floor-length trench is so chic you’ll practically glide into a room while wearing it.
Military-inspired jackets have never really gone out of style, and autumn offers every version imaginable. Aside from a tailored army coat – Haider Ackermann’s khaki styles are particularly elegant – there were some ornate styles. These versions are more fitted, with sharp shoulders and are decorated with epaulettes, buttons, gold rope, bows and even crystals as spotted at Givenchy, Burberry and Dolce Gabbana.
Leopard print is a perennial favourite and covers various styles from a fur coat at Prada and leather-trimmed tailored coat at Bottega Veneta, to a more subdued grey double-breasted style at Christian Dior.
If you’re after something more heavy duty, then opt for cosy shearling. The bigger and fluffier the coat, the better. At Celine an oversized style came with leather detailing while John Galliano created a more dramatic cape at Maison Martin Margiela. For something that is casual and super easy to wear, try Chloe’s oversized jumper/jacket with zippered pockets.
One new trend this autumn is the puffa jacket. Once a fashion no-no relegated to ski trips, it is now trending thanks to the emergence of haute street wear on the catwalks. Moncler may have made the puffa luxurious but designers such as Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga have made it cool again. Balenciaga’s versions were worn open at the shoulders with a polo neck underneath. Hip British duo Marques Almeida created a XXL floor-length puffa in bold colours such as orange, while another was worn over a cocktail dress on the catwalk. McQueen’s blanket coat comes in the palest shade of pink and is decorated with flowers and lined in marabou feathers.
Velvet may give you bad 1980s flashbacks, but the supple material was reworked into some gorgeous cover-ups at brands such as Roberto Cavalli and Preen. Vinyl and patent leather also add a dark sexy edge to Isabel Marant and Loewe’s cover-ups. And for that final touch, designers such as Dries Van Noten added a splattering of sequins. There’s no better way to shimmy into party season.
Hong Kong retailer offers customisable tailored coats
Personalisation is still a hot trend which is why we are lusting after a range of customisable coats launched by local retailer Rue Madame. The recently launched collection features a range of tailored classic styles in wool, mohair and cashmere blends including a button-up long coat (HK$3,890) and hooded zipper coat (HK$3,490). For every coat purchased, customers will be given a set of embroidered or sequined patches so they can customise their coat with their own initials and other fun emojis. ruemadame.com