The fashion crowd have waved goodbye to London and moved on to Milan, where the first stop is Gucci, one of the hottest tickets and prettiest invitations of the week. Here’s what we took away from the Italian fashion house’s spring/summer 2017 show.
1. The catwalk set was bathed in a rosy glow – from the shocking pink walls and carpet to the string curtains made of thousands of mirrored sequins and the velvet ottoman seating. Gucci designer Alessandro Michele described it backstage as “my kind of club, a place of illusion and finding new love”. The smoke and lighting meant that everything Gucci showed was clouded in pretty pink.
2. It was a task to make some order from the delightful chaos of clothes, imagery, accessories and complicated styling shown. The 1940s, ’70s and ruffled party dresses from the ’80s were all referenced. And, as we’ve come to expect at Gucci, there was a rainbow of colours and lots of shimmering fabrics.
3. The show was a throwback to the Italian brand’s heritage. Gucci’s signature braiding was featured trimming ’80s-style two-piece ensembles and trouser suits.
4. Michele described the collection as a story steeped in phantasmagoria. Dragons and other mythical creatures, symbols and mystic codes decorated coats, dresses and exotic costumes – all waiting to be deciphered.
5. The Chinese fans that Gucci sent out on the catwalk will be on fashion folks’ must-have list as a whimsical ‘it’ accessory, although the floral satin Marmont bag is a close competitor.
6. Bling is king: geeky glasses now sparkle with jewels, as do the platform loafers, and many of the looks came in metallic brocade and tinselly fabrics, notably a colourful tiered coat.
7. There was less menswear than in previous shows, but the gender fluidity of an embroidered waistcoat and floral suit was apparent.